IL-2 Beginner Guide

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Chapter 1: ​About the Game

IL-2 Sturmovik: Great Battles​ is the third generation in a series of IL-2 titles from Russian developer 1CGS. It is the successor to the original ​IL-2 Sturmovik/IL-2 Sturmovik: 1946​ and ​IL-2 Sturmovik Cliffs of Dover​ games, and stands alone as a completely new game on a new engine, featuring DX11 ​and VR support​. The “Great Battles” title includes a series of modules, or expansion packs, each based on a different time period, plane set, and theatre of WW2. Beginning with the release of “Battle of Stalingrad” in 2013, 1CGS has developed new expansions on a regular basis, and the current list of modules includes: 

● IL-2 Sturmovik: Battle of Stalingrad (BoS)

● IL-2 Sturmovik: Battle of Moscow (BoM)

● IL-2 Sturmovik: Battle of Kuban (BoK)

● IL-2 Sturmovik: Battle of Bodenplatte (BoBP)

● IL-2 Sturmovik: Battle of Normandy (BoN)

● IL-2 Sturmovik: Flying Circus (FC)

● IL-2 Sturmovik: Tank Crew 

Collectively, these modules are referred to as “IL-2 BoX.” Here’s the fun part—they all exist in the same game world! ​If you own one module, you get to play on ALL of the maps in multiplayer​.​ ​You can even enter the gunner positions of other players’ planes—you just cannot ​fly ​the planes from a module if you do not own it. We’ll talk about the specific maps and planes included in each module in just a moment, but first...a quick word on different ways to purchase the game.

Purchasing the Game: Steam vs 1CGS Web Store

The game is available on both ​Steam ​and the ​1CGS Web Store​, for roughly the same price, depending on sales. Fortunately, 1CGS has very wisely built an integrated account system, so if you purchase Battle of Stalingrad on Steam, you can then purchase additional modules straight from the developer’s website. You simply create an account on their site, purchase your module, and activate the key in your profile. Anything you activate is automatically available in your IL-2 game, on either Steam or standalone. The game downloads each new module once it’s released, so there are no additional downloads when you purchase new modules.

Should I Buy from Steam or the Developer?

Easy to keep track of your games		100% of your purchase goes to the game developers
Fat Steam pipe for faster download speeds		More sales, more often
Valve takes a 30% cut		New modules are available before they’re on Steam
Standard Editions only		Premium and Standard Editions available
Newest modules not available at release		If you pre-order, 1CGS lets you have planes as they are finished,so you get to fly before the module is officially released
		Slower downloads

I suggest you buy the base game on Steam (IL-2 Battle of Stalingrad) and purchase additional modules from the developer. That way, you can enjoy the fast download speeds and Steam integration, while still supporting the dev. There is zero difference between the game applications. If you want to buy any of the modules on Steam, you must own a Steam copy of BoS as the base game first.

Premium vs. Standard Edition: What Is This Pay2Win Bullshit?

Each IL-2 module is available as either a ​Standard Edition​ (includes the map and 8 planes) or a​ Premium Edition​ (includes an additional 2 ​collector planes​*​). During sales, which happen every few months, the Standard Editions are priced as low as $12.49 and the Premium Editions go for as low as $19.99. The brand new modules are about $60 during sales, so it’s worth starting with the older modules and waiting a few months. The options in the table below will let you be competitive on most servers. 

• “What is a ​collector plane​?” you ask in between bouts of heavy breathing. Well, my sweaty-palmed friend, these gems are sold

separately from the Standard Edition game.​ If you purchase the Premium Edition, some are included with your base plane pack​. Do you ​need ​them? Debatable. Are they worth it? Yes, some of them are. Collector planes go on sale for $9.99, $4.99, or less, depending on how recent the release was. (All prices in table below are average sale prices)

1CGS knows what they’re doing, so collector planes are often the coolest, funkiest, or most desirable planes of the module time period. That being said, they are not always the ​best ​or most competitive planes of the pack, so it’s not necessarily a pay2win system. Nobody is buying the U-2VS biplane, MC.202 spaghetti monster, Ju 52 flying garbage truck, or the Hs 129 duck because they want a leg up on you in combat. They are, however, buying some of the other collector planes to do just that (looking at you La-5, La-5FN, Fw 190 A-3, Fw 190 D-9, Yak-1b, and P-38). Collector planes are available on Steam, as well as the 1CGS Web Store, so ​even if you can’t buy a Premium Edition on Steam, you can still buy the Standard Edition + both collector planes to end up with the same deal. 

Which Modules Should I Buy First?

Best Bang for Your Buck	Ballin’ on a Budget	Burn, Baby, Burn
BoS Premium $22	BoS Premium $22	BoS Premium $22
BoK Standard $12	BoK Standard $12	Everything else
Example	BoBP Premium $44	Even Tank Crew
Total: $34	Total: $78	Total: Just your dignity

Chapter 2​: ​Modules, Maps, and Planes, Oh My!

Battle of Stalingrad (BoS)

IL-2 Sturmovik: Battle of Stalingrad is the “base” game of IL-2. If you’re new to the series, it should be your first purchase. It’s got a great plane set that will let you find a plane to fly in the majority of multiplayer games. You might not be super competitive in late war maps, but BoS is the bread and butter of IL-2. The map is set around Stalingrad during the winter of 1942/43, so expect to be cruising around the Volga enjoying late Autumn foliage or the frozen hellscape of a Russian winter. 

Soviet		Axis
LaGG-3 Series 29:​ ​ A brawler built of equal parts plywood and Communist grit, the LaGG is one of the most durable—and devastating—Soviet fighters of the war. Featuring an optional 23mm or 37mm cannon (take the 23), it shines at low altitude fighting.		Bf 109 F-4:​ Fast, deadly, and able to engage on it’s own terms, the F4 is a plane to be feared. Like most 109s, it’s fairly fragile, but hits hard, climbs like a rocket, and carries enough ammo to stay in the fight all day long.
Yak-1 Series 69:​ The faster, more elegant companion to the LaGG-3, the Yak 1 is the workhorse of the Soviet airforce. It’s extremely maneuverable and makes an excellent turnfighter.		Bf 109 G-2:​ Slightly heavier than the F4, the G2 is a little more sluggish, but more controllable. Unlike the F4, it features a governor, so you can run at 100% throttle without fear of blowing the engine. It’s an excellent choice for new Axis pilots.
IL-2 AM-38 (model 1942):​ Like blowing shit up on the ground, shrugging off holes in your wings, and writing graffiti on the sides of your plane to let everyone know what a badass you and your gunner are? Do I have a plane for you.		Ju 87 D-3​: Do you have a moment to talk about Jericho Trumpets and 1800kg bombs?
Pe-2 Series 87:​ This plane is utter bullshit. You can carry 4x250kg bombs and enough spare parts to keep flying through WW3. I’ve never seen one shot down before. A++ best bomber in the game.		He 111 H-6:​ There’s nothing quite like seeing an He 111 in the air. Especially if you’re Soviet. Because who doesn’t love a free kill? This plane is best flown at high altitudes so nobody can see you. Have fun climbing above the clouds, asswipe. See you after the war.
*Collector Plane*​ La-5 Series 8:​ A true ambush fighter. This bitch is fast and deadly, but those twin 20mm cannons go through ammo quickly, so make your shots count. You’re pretty much the king of speed on he deck. You can roll, but you can’t turn. Also, deflection shooting is tough because someone was high AF when they mounted those cannons.		*Collector Plane*​ Fw 190 A-3​: The gentleman’s fighter. This butcher bird is a work of art. Your job is to boom and zoom and never look back. They give you (2) 20mm cannons, but you can double that with wing-mounted MG-FF pods. Which you should. Because a true artist doesn’t just shoot a plane down, he turns it into confetti.

Battle of Moscow (BoM)

IL-2 Sturmovik: Battle of Moscow is the second installment in the series, but it’s actually set earlier in the war, from October 1941 to April 1942. It includes the area around Moscow, in both Autumn and Winter seasons. You get quite a few funky little planes in this module, some of which are quite fun and charming, if lacking in performance (relative to the later war modules).

Soviet		Axis
I-16 Type 24:​ ​ Nicknamed the Ishak (donkey) or Rata (rat), you can’t help but love this plane. It will try to murder new pilots, but after you spend 15 minutes hand-cranking that landing gear up for the first time and hear that canopy door you forgot to close tear off in the wind, you won’t care about anything else. You’re now a hot 1980s beach chick in your drop top, wind in your hair, cruising for low and slow German tourists to absolutely ruin.		Bf 109 E-7:​ This plane turns very well. That’s about the only nice thing I have to say about it.
MiG-3 Series 24:​ In the hands of a capable pilot, this is an impressive high-altitude fighter. For the rest of us, it’s a plane we take when there are no more Yak 1s or LaGG-3s available. Powerful cannons and fast speeds up high, but limited visibility and poor performance on the deck.		Bf 109 F-2:​ If the 109s were your children, this little guy would be the one bringing home B’s with the occasional C+. Not the best, but it gets the job done. You have the option to mount a 20mm MG 151/20 cannon in the nose. Take that option, please.
IL-2 AM-38 (model 1941):​ There’s no gunner turret on this model, which is 1941’s way of telling you to bring two of these planes instead of one.		Bf 110 E-2​: Not quite agile enough to be a fighter, nor durable enough to be an attacker, this 110 is best used for dropping bombs and then running away. You do get two 20mm cannons that will shred anything dumb enough to get in front of you, so if you find enemy attackers, let ‘em have it.
Pe-2 Series 35:​ A slightly not-as-great version of the BoS Pe-2. Don’t worry, it’s still great.		Ju 88 A-4:​ If you’re going to fly a German bomber, this is the one you want. Decently fast and you can carry enough ordnance to flatten a city. The gunner isn’t quite as deadly as the mofo in the Peshka, but he tries his best.
*Collector Plane*​ P-40E-1:​ A lovable American plane full of cockpit space and .50 cal rounds. The devs get some flak for modeling the engine limits too conservatively, but she’d never win any speed contests anyway. Durable body, great firepower, terrible climb rate.		*Collector Plane*​ MC.202 Series VIII​: Say ​bownjorno ​to the war’s most ridiculous plane. Then say goodbye to it, because it sucks ass and will most likely get you shot at from both sides because it looks more like an Allied fighter than an Axis one.

Battle of Kuban (BoK)

Welcome to the beautiful beaches of the Black Sea, lush fields of green, and the rugged peaks of the Caucasus Mountains—Kuban is arguably the prettiest map in the game. Plus, you get some fantastic planes as part of the Standard Edition. Set in spring of 1943, you may recognize some of the locations from the Georgia Map in DCS.

Soviet		Axis
Yak-7b Series 36:​ ​ What happens when you accidentally make a trainer that’s better than your frontline fighters? Yank the back seat out and it becomes your new frontline fighter! Armed with a 20mm cannon and two 12.7mm guns, this plane is speedy, durable, and extremely capable.		Bf 109 G-4:​ Essentially a heavier version of the G2 without a governed engine, this 109 is a solid performer. A bit slower in the climb, due to a fixed tailwheel, extra beef, and other changes, it’s still a nice progression in the 109 family.
P-39L-1:​ Tricycle gear, car doors, an engine behind you, and a goddamn 37mm cannon are just a few of the things to love about the P-39. Enjoy incredible dive speeds and devastating firepower, tempered by lackluster climb rates and unimpressive top speeds		Fw 190 A-5:​ It’s hard to improve on the A-3, but those wacky krauts did it. You’re now even faster, but you do have cowling flaps to manage (lol jk, set them at like 5% unless you’re doing dumb shit).
IL-2 AM-38F (model 1943):​ Pretty much the Cadillac of IL-2s. Flies like one, too.		Bf 110 G-2​: The best 110. Decently fast and packed with nasty firepower, this plane will tear anything apart. It’s a big target—and not a great dogfighter—but you can hold your own in a brawl.
A-20B:​ While not as formidable as the Pe-2, the A-20 is still a welcome change to the Soviet lineup. It’s fun to fly, holds a diverse bomb payload, and looks adorable.		He 111 H-16:​ Upgraded turrets and a heavy bomb load are two welcome improvements to the He 111 series. This plane is still basically a deathtrap, so stay high and level bomb.
*Collector Plane*​ Spitfire Mk.VB:​ The legendary Spitfire is graceful and wonderful to fly. You’re extremely agile, decently quick, and deliver brutal attacks with twin 20mm Hispanos in the wings. With only a few bursts of cannon ammo, you have to make your shots count.		*Collector Plane*​ Hs 129 B-2​: Quack, quack! The Duck is ideal for pilots who love destroying tanks and hate going fast.

Battle of Bodenplatte (BoBP)

It’s late war, winter of 1944/1945. Allies are closing in on the meticulously maintained concrete runways of the Luftwaffe in western Germany, the Netherlands, and Belgium. Welcome to the Jet Age, bitches. It’s about to get fast and deadly up the Rhineland. 

Soviet		Axis
P-47-D28:​ ​ Unfortunately not quite as robust as its real-life counterpart, the Jug deals massive amounts of firepower, but also likes to get set on fire. It’s also enormous, if you’re into thicc girls.		Bf 109 G-14:​ Fast and you get a 30mm cannon. That’s all you need to know. Have fun!
P-51D-15:​ Cadillac of the skiiiieees! Gyro gun sights and a G-suit? Look at Mr. Fancypants! The P-51 is an amazing plane, a joy to fly, and insanely fast. Take <70% fuel to keep the rear tank empty, or you’ll suffer.		Bf 109 K-4:​ Jesus Christ, it’s an even faster 109. This demon plane is built for pure acceleration, climb rate, and speed.
Spitfire Mk.IXe:​ An even more sinister Spitfire, with curves in all the right places—plus the option to take clipped wings! You also get two choices of engines: the Merlin 66 for low altitude and Merlin 70 for altitude performance.		Fw 190 A-8​: The OG boom and zoomer gets even boomier and zoomier. You get bigger machine guns, (4) 20mm cannons, and 30mm wing-mounted cannons. Plus you can carry enormous bombs!
Tempest Mk.V ser.2:​ This plane is cheat mode and shouldn’t be used by any self-respecting gentleman. Stay on the deck and chase those Jerries down, you scoundrel.		Me 262 A:​ This plane is a cheat mode and shouldn’t be used by ​anyone​. Fortunately, newbies can’t fly it, because it’s the most difficult plane to start. Heaven forbid you get one in the air. The only thing that can bring you down is lack of fuel.
*Collector Plane*​ P-38J:​ Imagine a smaller B-17 that can chase you down and haunt your dreams. That was the design spec for the P-38J, verbatim. Load it up with 500lb bombs, blow up a town, and then get in the fight.		*Collector Plane*​ Fw 190 D-9​: Get a load of the snout on this pig. Apparently, the Germans decided to stop making sexy planes and just go hog wild with the performance features. Like other 190s, it’s still not a dogfighter, but you get amazing speed, great climb rate, and serious firepower (plus air to air rockets!).

Battle of Normandy (BoN)

Day of Days is upon us. Fighting over hedgerows and French whorehouses, the action is fast and fierce. Just as the BoS, BoM, and BoK maps tie into a close-knit series on the Eastern Front, BoN and BoBP are a matched set in the West. Expect a bit of crossover in terms of planes, with some interesting variants included in Normandy. The map includes beautiful coastal towns and the opportunity for daring cross-Channel raids. 

Soviet		Axis
P-51B/C:​ ​ This earlier model of the Mustang has a somewhat lighter armament and decreased visibility compared to its later cousin, but still delivers impressive performance.		Bf 109 G-6 Late:​ Not to be confused with the G-6 “Early,” this 109 variant offers a different canopy design with better rear visibility and a new tail with higher rudder design. It’s very similar to the G-14 in terms of performance.
P-47D “Razorback”:​ An early version of the P-47 offers essentially the same performance, with a few differences—the most noteworthy of which is the missing bubble canopy.		Fw 190 A-6​: A nice mix between the agility of the A-5 and the destructive capability of the A-8, this 190 variant features up to (6) 20mm cannons in a lightweight package.
Typhoon Mk.Ib:​ Sharing a lineage with the Tempest, the Typhoon is an early derivative with a slightly slower top speed and less maneuverability. It’s still fast on the deck and serves as an excellent fighter bomber, thanks to (4) 20mm Hispanos.		Ju 88C-6a​: While the C-6 was often used as a radar-equipped nightfighter, we’re getting the heavy day fighter variant. It features fixed guns in the nose, more armor, and a decreased bomb capacity.
Mosquito F.B. Mk.VI:​ This twin-engine, high-speed bomber packs some serious firepower into a beautiful design. While you don’t have any gunners, speed is your greatest defense.		Me 410:​ An extremely flexible platform, the Me 410 serves as a capable interceptor, bomber, and attacker. Impressive armament options let you pack some incredible firepower into a fairly nimble platform.
*Collector Plane*​ Spitfire Mk.XIV:​ A beefed-up variant, this Spitfire features a more powerful Griffon powerplant and 5-bladed propeller for incredible performance and a climb rate comparable to space elevators.		*Collector Plane*​ Ar 234​: Imagine being the least popular jet jockey at the airfield. Congratulations, you’re an Ar 234 pilot. Incredibly fast and capable of delivering big ol’ bombs, this plane will certainly add an interesting new dimension to Axis bombing operations.

Additional Collector Planes

Soviet		Axis
Yak-1b Series 127:​ ​ One of the best Soviet fighters. Very fast, exceptional visibility, but limited ammo.		Ju 52/Зm:​ A flying bus, assembled from the wreckage of a post-cyclone Haitian shanty town. You’re basically the Miss Frizzle of WW2.
La-5FN Series 2:​ A super plane—boosted, fuel injected, and fast. In 1943, it ruled the sky from the runway to the cloud base.		Bf 109 G-6 Early​: Not to be confused with the G-6 Late in BoN, this variant is another solid 109. Additional firepower adds weight as well as a few bulges to the fuselage.

Flying Circus—Volume I (FC)

While not necessarily part of the IL-2 universe, Flying Circus uses the same engine and game features as the rest of the IL-2 modules. You can even fly the planes against each other on the same map, if you so choose. This first installment (expect a Volume II in the future) is essentially an upgrade to the previous WW1 title, Rise of Flight (RoF). With this new version, we get VR support, better eye candy, and all the benefits of a modern engine...although we have a somewhat less diverse plane set, as it will take some time to add all of the options RoF offered. The map features the Arras sector of the Western Front, centered on No Man’s Land. Overall FC is an incredibly enjoyable experience, and the multiplayer is much more accessible, slow-paced, and relaxing than WW2—and especially well-suited to cooperative play with friends. 

Entente		Central
Spad XIII		Albatros D.Va
Sopwith Dolphin		Fokker Dr.1
Sopwith Camel		Fokker D.VII
RAF S.E.5.a		Pfalz D.IIIa
Bristol Fighter		Halberstadt CL.II.

Tank Crew—Clash at Prokhorovka

While the IL-2 BoS and BoM owners receive two player-controlled tanks (T-34-76 and PzKpfw III Ausf. L) that can take part in combined operations with planes, 1CGS decided to release a separate tank-focused module as well. This module features a smaller, high-fidelity map ideal for tank warfare. Prokhorovka offers detailed buildings, well-placed roads, and forests that make for interesting tank combat. Although this module isn’t the main focus of the IL-2 series, it’s a nice addition for anyone who’s looking for a more immersive combat experience. Player-controlled tanks, with visible tank crew, detailed interiors, and full support for VR, include the T-34-76, KV-1s, M4A2, SU-122, SU-152, PzKpfw III Ausf.M, PzKpfw IV Ausf.G, PzKpfw V Ausf.D, PzKpfw VI Ausf.H1, and Sd. Kfz. 184. ​More information to come as this module is developed further. 

Chapter 3​: ​In a Bind: Setting Up Controls like a Grownup

Nobody enjoys binding their joystick/throttle/pedals/whatever. You’re the one who bought all that shit, idiot. Stick to the default keyboard binds if it bothers you that much. Fortunately, you really only have to create your binds once, and ​it takes less than 10 minutes​. When 1CGS releases new planes, they’ll default to the binds you’ve already made for other planes, so unless you buy a plane with a wacky new engine injection technology, you don’t have to constantly mess with settings. 
Before we get started, a few words on the interface. There is no “search” functionality, meaning you can’t press a button on your joystick and have it take you to the bind. There’s a good reason for this: ​IL-2 lets you bind multiple commands to the same key. This is a wonderful thing. It lets you control all radiators with a single switch, control trim/stabilizer systems on different planes with the same hat, etc. You can see when you have multiple commands bound to the same key by the presence of a small orange square in the bottom right corner of the input field. Mouse over it to see what other commands you have assigned to the key. Here, you can see I’ve bound two joystick buttons to open and close all of my oil and water radiator shutters, inlet cowls, and outlet cowls:



You can also use modifiers to double your binds—but only “approved” modifier keys like Shift, Ctrl, Windows Key, and Alt.​ For example, the default keyboard binds for all of the engine controls use these modifiers and the +/- keys next to backspace. Very handy if you don’t have room to bind all of them to individual HOTAS buttons/axes.  Oh and don’t worry if you’re new to flight sims and don’t know much about cooling systems or trim or what all of this means, we’ll go over that in the section on ​The Fundamentals of Flight​...for now, we’ll just take care of the binds so you can hop in a plane and mess around. 

First of all, do you have just a joystick or a full HOTAS with pedals, buttonboxes, etc.?

● If you’re only using a joystick, no worries. I still use the default keyboard binds a lot, even in VR. As we go through, just make note of the keyboard binds and remember them. ​I’ll point out anything essential that you should have on your joystick buttons/hats/slider with an asterisk.
● If you have a HOTAS, feel free to set it up however you feel comfortable. I’ve included a default setup here that should let you fly most planes fairly comfortably, but use your best judgement if you’ll never touch a bomber, etc.

Before you begin binding, skip ahead to the end of this section. There’s a HOTAS diagram with color-coded bind suggestions for each of the different control sections.​ ​Let’s start with the most important commands: weapons! From the main menu, click “Settings” and then “Key Mapping.” Using the Controls menu on the left, select “​Weapon controls​”



If you have a 2-stage trigger, set “​Fire weapon group 1​” to the first stage, and “​Fire all guns*​” to the second. If you just have a regular trigger, use “​Fire all guns*​” and bind “​Fire weapon group 2​” (your cannons) to a second button on your joystick.
Let’s move right down the line and bind everything you’ll need for the Weapons control section:

● Bomb sight​ (OK as keyboard bind “V”)
● Drop bombs mode toggle​ (OK as keyboard bind “Left Win+B”)
● Drop bombs, containers, paratroopers, emit smoke*
● Launch rockets*
● Bomb bay doors toggle​ (OK as keyboard bind “N”)
● Reload all guns​ (OK as default “middle mouse button”)
● Change firing position​ (OK as keyboard bind, used to switch between bomber crew)
● Turret: take/leave control​ (OK as keyboard bind “T”, used to unlock turret gun)
● Turret: nestle to the gunsight​ (OK as keyboard bind “Left Shift+T”, used to bring up iron sights)

Okay, that’s it for weapons. Let’s move on to the actual ​Plane controls​. Here’s where it gets confusing for some people. IL-2 puts all of the binds for buttons and axes for all of the planes together, so you’re going to see a lot of duplicate commands...like ​Rudder trim axis​ and ​Rudder trim switch left​/​Rudder trim switch right ​both have the same key binds. That’s fine. They both do the same thing! It’s also worth noting that Axis and Allied aircraft obviously have unique systems that may do the same thing, so for example, a Soviet plane might have ​Elevator trim​, while a German one has an ​Adjustable stabilizer ​instead. Bind them both to the same key, because you’ll never be in a plane that has both!

Moving down the line, let’s bind up your flight controls. ​For any command that has a positive and a negative input (lever up/down, wheel left/right, valve open/closed), you’ll obviously have to input two key binds as part of a pair. ​Think of it like setting an axis, but with buttons. 

● Plane control: pitch*
● Plane control: roll*
● Plane control: yaw*
● Rudder trim​ (If you know how to trim, bind all this shit. If not, don’t worry about it. I don’t trim for shit.)
● Elevator trim ​(Can share bind with ​Adjustable stabilizer​)
● Aileron trim
● Adjustable stabilizer ​(Can share bind with ​Elevator trim​)
● Flaps up*
● Flaps down*
● AirBrakes on/off​ (OK as keyboard bind, can share bind with ​Attack siren on/off​ for maximum drama!)
● Attack siren on/off​ (OK as keyboard bind, really only used for Stuka)
● Dive recovery system: on/off​ (OK as keyboard bind unless you dive bomb A LOT)
● Gear up/down*
● Tail wheel lock/unlock*​ (OK as keyboard bind, some planes have a manual lock, others rely on the position of the joystick)
● Wheel brakes*​ (Most planes will let you ​use this in combination with rudder input to use differential braking on the ground​)
● Left wheel brakes​ (Bind if you have pedals/paddle switch you want to use)
● Right wheel brakes​ (Bind if you have pedals/paddle switch you want to use)
● Canopy open/close*​ (OK as keyboard bind)
● Navigation lights on/off*​ (Goons use nav lights as a warning beacon/call for help. Nice to have this bind handy!)
● Cockpit lights on/off
● Eject​ (OK as keyboard bind, you pussy)

Welcome to ​Engine controls​! You have a few basic ways to murder your engine in IL-2, all of which involve either making it work too hard or making it work too hot. Sometimes even too cold, if you’re creative. We’ll cover all of that in ​The Fundamentals of Flight​, so for now, we’ll just make sure all of your shit is hooked up. 

If you have a ton of spare buttons, feel free to bind each separate control for your different oil/water radiators and inlet/outlet cowls. If you don’t—and you want to use the default keyboard binds, that’s absolutely fine...but​ I highly recommend you also bind a separate set of keys to open/close EVERYTHING TEMPERATURE RELATED at once​. That way, when you hop in a new plane, you can press one of your two special MAX COOLING KEYS™ and know which systems your plane has. Or if you’re overheating and you want to get frosty in a hurry, it only takes one press. Okay, buckle up, here we go!

● Engage engines start procedure / Stop engine*​ (OK as keyboard bind “E”)
● Engines throttle control*
● Engines mixture control*
● Engines superchargers mode switch*
● Engines turbosupercharger control​ (Bind if you love the P-47)
● Switch engines boost: on/off*
● Propeller RPM control*​ (Think of this as second in importance only to your throttle)
● Switch propellers pitch control manual/auto​ (This is handy to have in Axis planes, so you can baby a damaged engine)
● Propellers: high pitch​ (Same as ​Propeller RPM control +​...bind it the same)
● Propellers: low pitch ​(Same as ​Propeller RPM control -​...bind it the same)
● Oil radiators shutters control axis*
● He-111, Bf-110 oil radiators: open one step ​(Same as ​Oil radiators shutters control axis +​...bind it the same)
● He-111, Bf-110 oil radiators: close one step ​(Same as ​Oil radiators shutters control axis -​...bind it the same)
● Water radiators shutters control axis*
● Bf-109/110, Spitfire water radiator: open ​(Same as ​Water radiators shutters control axis +​...bind it the same)
● Bf-109/110, Spitfire water radiator: close ​(Same as ​Water radiators shutters control axis -​...bind it the same)
● Engines inlet cowl shutters control*
● Engines outlet cowl shutters control*

You did it! That was basically the hardest part of the game (except for starting the Me 262). Congratulations! Let’s just finish up the binds with a few essential commands in the ​Service ​and ​Pilot head controls​ sections:

● Show/hide mission briefing*​ ​(Brings up your map in game)
● Show/hide entire HUD​ ​(Not essential, but nice to have if you want to hide chat, etc.)
● VR camera zoom*​ ​(Momentary zoom—ONLY for VR. There is no gradual zoom for VR)
● Pilot head: zoom in*​ ​(Gradual zoom—ONLY for 2D)
● Pilot head: zoom out*​ ​(Gradual zoom—ONLY for 2D)

Note​: If you’d like to set curves or a deadzone for your joystick, you can do so by clicking on the grey arrow in the key bind field for that axis assignment. Unless you have a stick extension or a special setup, default curves should be fine to get started.

Sample T.16000M FCS HOTAS Setup